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Off the beaten track
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A number of places and activities, known to only a select few visitors to Peru, allow visitors with additional curiosity and time in the capital to explore it in depth, from archaeological sites to lesser-known shopping destinations, bars and restaurants where only locals habitually go.
 
Villamaría del Triunfo Fishermen’s market: One of the most authentic experiences one can have on the Peruvian coast. Arrive ideally at 5 am to see fishermen bringing in the day’s glorious catch. Best way to get there is by taxi.
   
Restaurante Fiesta: A rarity, offering gourmet Chiclayo cooking from the north of Peru, in the heart of Miraflores. Virtually unknown among tourists, this is one of the best restaurants in Lima, and probably in the entire Peru. Don’t miss the unusual ceviche a la brasa (charcoal-grilled ceviche).
   
Lima Centro’s bar circuit: The historic center of Lima is full of distinctive old classic bars of great personality, all virtually on top of each other, so it’s easy to do a Limeño version of a pub crawl. Among the best places for a drink are the German beer hall Munich, the very old bar Cordano, the renowned Queirolo, and the discotheque Yakana, as well as the bar in the Hotel Bolívar, which claims to serve the finest pisco sour in the city. Next door to the Bolívar is El Bolivariano, also known for its weird pisco sours.
   
Polvos Azules (Popular Peruvian Shopping): This popular commercial center, where you’ll find imitation or even contraband versions of the upscale originals for sale at places like Jockey Plaza, with rock-bottom prices. There are thousands of stands on 4 floors, with areas dedicated to movies, music, electronics and clothing, glasses, and more. Some shops even guarantee their goods. It’s the kind of shopping experience you’re unlikely to have anywhere else.
   
Pachacámac: The best ruins within easy reach of Lima, inhabited by several pre-Columbian cultures before the Incas. Pachacámac is a sacred city and holy place of pilgrimage, including plazas, adobe-brick palaces, and pyramidal temples. The earliest constructions date to the first century, although the site reached its apogee during the Huari (or Wari) culture (10th c.). After the Incas conquered it in the 15th century, the site became one of the most important shrines in the Americas. Located 31km/19 miles south of Lima. To make a complete day of it, en route to Pachacámac, visitors can stop by the studio of Federico Bauer, and coordinate a coastal visit to Pucusana to see its stunning marine life, or see Pachacámac from above, by paraglider.
   
Caral: The oldest city in the Americas (some 5,000 years old), is located about 200 km. (120 mi) north of Lima along the Pan-American highway (at km 184 and then a 30 minute detour from the road). For lunch in Barranca, visit the restaurant Tato or La Gaviota. The specialty dish at these coastal spots is tatu tacu stuffed with fish or shellfish. The excursion takes a full day. For more information about Caral, you can visit www.caralperu.gob.pe
 
For additional information on Off the Beaten Track choices in the Peruvian capital, you can write to travel@casa-andina.com
 
Peru Lima Travel - Walter Wust
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More than 15 years of publications, including 220 books and guides about Peru and its environment.
Peru Lima Information - Rafo León
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Ten years crisscrossing Peru, producing 240 TV programs on diverse topics.
Lima Travel - Neil Schletch
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The author of 15 travel guides to cities and countries around the world, including 4 editions of Frommer’s Peru.
Travel in Lima - Iñigo Maneiro
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With nearly 15 years of travel experience, and having lived in different places in Peru.
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